Alternative flooring
When people remodel their house many people decide to change the flooring in our home to give the room a new look. When you are deciding on a new look for your room you’ll be able to change the flooring to meet all of your needs. There are many different types of flying that you have to choose from so you have to be well aware of all the different types so that you can make an educated decision. Here are the types of flooring you can choose from and some interesting facts about each one so that you have more information in order to make the right decision for the room in your house.
Hardwood flooring is very easy to clean and very easy to install. Hardwood flooring is also a little bit more expensive than any other type of flooring because it uses the hardwood grain as a design when you install it. It is very easy to install and depending on the size of the room you’ll be able to have it done in a couple of hours. The bad thing about hardwood flooring is that it allows sounds to bounce all over the house very easily.
Linoleum is another great way to get the job done quickly and cleanly. This type of flooring does not cost very much and is very easy to install. It will only take you a couple of hours to install this type of flooring and it is very easy to clean. Many people like using this flooring in kitchens and in the bathroom so they do not take all of the time cleaning. The bad thing about this type of flooring is that if it’s wet you will slide all over the place in bare feet.
You can also choose carpeting to put down on a new floor. Carpeting is very easy to install and does not take a lot of time depending on the size of the room. You have to have special tools in order to make sure that the carpet is pulled tight all away across the room so there are no raise areas for people to trip on. This type of flooring also cuts down on the amount of noise echoing across the room.
Carpet Flooring Guide by Jaipur Rugs
When you shop for carpet you’ll find a wealth of color’s, textures and styles – in fact, sometimes it may seem a bit irresistible. That’s why we recommend you think of carpet as a fashion investment. After all, you’re not simply covering your floors – you’re revealing the beauty of your home, and bringing your own personal decorating style to life.
Jaipur Rugs Tips:
What to come across for in a Carpet
While color and price are crucial factors when shopping for carpet, the right color at the lowest price does not necessarily signify the best value.
Performance value, the way the carpet actually performs when it is on your floor, should be your primary consideration. It’s not easy to predict how well a carpet will perform in your home. The better the fiber and the denser that it’s packed, the better the carpet will perform. Low quality carpet is easy to spot – it’s thin and lightweight. A better indication of a product’s performance value can be found in the manufacturer’s warranty. Practically any carpet looks good when it’s first installed, but the longer it stays looking good, the greater its real value.
How to Pick your Carpet
As your plans develop, you’ll collect fabric swatches, paint chips, photo examples from design magazines, and other helpful tools. Be sure to bring these with you when you shop – and always bring a sketch of your room’s floor plan.
Beware of bargain.
Most retailers offer legitimate sales at various times. However, beware of unbelievable and unreasonable bargains and advertising claims. Cheap carpet that wears out quickly can prove to be more costly in the long run. Remember, you get what you pay for.
Consider the cost per year.
With any long term investment the true cost of the carpet must reflect its length of satisfactory service. Don’t economize on high-traffic, heavy-wear floors in your home like halls and family rooms, buy the best quality you can afford because if you have to replace the carpet it will cost you more in the long run not only for the cost of the replacement carpet, but the cost and inconvenience of another installation. Different rooms have different requirements.
Halls and Stairs:
These high traffic areas require densely tufted carpet with low pile height. A carpet that will resist matting and crushing is ideal for this area. Consider medium color’s with a texture or soil-hiding pattern.
Living Room:
Generally a more formal setting, elegant Saxony plush or textured plush works well in this area. Depending on how often you use the room you can purchase any high-performance carpet. Clean-ability and stain resistance are important if this area is used frequently.
Dining Room:
Stain conflict and clean-ability are imperative factors wherever food and drink are common. Select a carpet with soil-hiding features and easy maintenance.
Family Room:
Dense carpeting with soil and stain resistance are ideal for multipurpose rooms. Consider patterns, multicolored tweeds and berbers
Bedrooms:
Generally low-traffic areas, durability may not be critical. Your imagination can run free – look for delicate colors and comfort.
Kids’ Rooms:
Look for a durable, easy to clean carpet with good soil hiding capabilities
Kitchen:
Carpeted kitchens prevent slipping and reduce foot fatigue, as well as breakage. In this high traffic area, look for a small pattern to minimize stains, in addition to a carpet that is easy to clean.
Jaipur Rugs offer an excellent and exhaustive range of carpets woven to perfection by our skilled craftsmen. The range of products includes hand knotted wool rugs, silk rugs, flat woven rugs, hand-tufted rugs, Indo Tibetan rugs, contemporary rugs etc. depicting a fine combination of Indian artwork beautifully incorporated with modern designs perfect for adorning Indian homes and even contemporary American homes.
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Leave a commentHaven Hardwood’s How to Sand and Refinish Your Floor Guide
Haven Hardwood’s
How to Sand and Refinish Your Floor
Guide
Steps
•1.) Safety.
•2.) Determine if you have hardwood flooring.
•3.) Remove any layers of carpet or sub-floor.
•4.) Rent the equipment.
•5.) Sanding with the floor belt sander.
•6.) Sanding with the edger sander.
•7.) Scraping.
•8.) Screening.
•9.) Vacuuming.
•10.) Picking the right finish.
•11.) Applying the finish.
•12.) Screening between coats.
•13.) Floor care.
1.) Safety
The first and most important step is safety. When doing any of the following steps I highly recommend the importance of safety and/or preventive gear such as safety goggles, ear plugs, respirators, work gloves, back brace and knee pads. You only have one body so please take care of it!
2.) Determine if you have hardwood.
Do you even have hardwood that is capable of being refinished? There are a couple ways to find this out. If you have carpet simply tear up a couple corners in an inconspicuous place, such as a closet and peek underneath.
If you don’t have a finished basement ceiling you can sometimes see the flooring from there. Sometimes you can even see the species and grade of wood from below. It gets tricky from there if your floor is covered with tile, linoleum or another sub-floor. If you can not see anything from the basement then you will have to tear up a small section of the sub-floor to reach the hardwood.
3.) Remove any layers of carpet or sub-floor.
Take a sharp razor knife and cut the carpet in three feet wide sections. Roll up the sections and tape. Most garbage companies won’t take carpet any wider than three feet. Do the same with the carpet padding. Next, grab a crowbar, hammer, nail set and snub-nosed pliers. Pop the carpet tack strip up, being careful to pull any nails or staples all the way out. If you don’t they could damage your sanding machine and dull your sandpaper. Any nails that can’t be pulled need pounded down with a hammer and nail set. Vacuum thoroughly.
Wood Sub-Floor Removal
Grab a circular saw and set it to the proper depth of your sub-floor. Make sure not to set it too low, as it will leave saw marks in your floor. Cut lines across the room, then cut lines perpendicular to those, making 2′ by 2′ boxes in a grid-like fashion. Cut as close to the walls as you can for easier removal. Pop the 2′ by 2′ sections up. You can buy a “Gorilla Bar” at a home improvement center if you have a lot of removal work. Be prepared to pull a lot of nails and/or staples.
4.) Rent the Equipment.
Call your local rental equipment company and explain your project. You will need a floor sander, edger and buffer. You also need the lowest available grit sandpaper, medium (36 grit) and fine (80 grit) for the floor sander and edger. For the buffer you need an 80 grit screen (like a drywall screen, except it’s round) and a 180 grit screen. Make sure to get more paper than you think you will need. The rental company should let you return any leftovers.
5.) Sanding with the Floor Sander.
Before you start sanding you need to fill any holes caused by the nails and staples. Buy stainable latex wood putty and fill the holes with a putty knife. The putty should take about thirty minutes to dry.
Grab your lowest grit paper and put it on the big machine. Most rental companies only carry down to 36 grit paper, but if you have any lower grit paper put that on first. Making sure that the machine’s cord is behind you, turn the machine on and slowly let the drum handle down as you simultaneously begin walking toward the wall. Make sure to always go with the grain of the wood. Occasionally, in exceptional circumstances you may have to sand the floor diagonally. This may be the only way to get the floor sanded in extreme cases.
After the first rough cut you need to sand with a medium grit. If you started with 36 grit then you would use 60 grit. If you started with a grit lower than 36 your second sanding should be with 36 grit.
Especially pay attention to the “drum marks”. These are lines where you put your drum down too fast and hard. If you get one, simply run back over it with the machine a few times.
The final cut is the fine sand. Go up another grit of paper, 80-100 grit. Follow the same sanding procedures as above.
6.) Sanding with the Edger Machine.
Sanding with the edger machine consists of using the same sandpaper as what you are using for the big machine. When you fine sand with the edger make sure to get the previous swirl marks from your rough sandpaper out. Don’t push down too hard on the machine, as this will leave gouge marks. Watch when sanding around doorways so as not to leave “half-moons”. These are just from when the machine stops and leaves half of a circle mark.
7.) Scraping.
Now that the floor and edge sanding is completed, it’s time to scrape. Anywhere your machine can’t reach (corners, under cabinets or radiators and stair noses) needs to be hand-scraped down to the bare wood. You can purchase a 2″ wide scraper from any home improvement supply store. A bastard file is used to sharpen the scraper blade. Keep the blade as sharp as possible. Remember to always scrape with the wood grain. You have to scrape any old, existing finish off the floor completely so it will match your newly sanded floor. If your are meticulous and worried about rough spots where you scraped, just take an 80 grit piece of sandpaper and lightly sand where you scraped.
8.) Screening.
Screening is a process used to sand and smooth out any marks or imperfections. An 80 grit screen will work fine for the raw wood. Try to rest the machine handles on your belly. Don’t try to hold the machine out, away from your body. You will lose control if you do it this way. Try to go with the grain as much as possible.
9.) Vacuuming
This stage is vital in order to complete a flawless finish process. Get a vacuum (a simple wet/dry vac will work) with a flat floor attachment. Vac everything. Start at the top (ceiling fans, moldings, windows door sills, heat vents and registers). You don’t want any airborne dust floating in your finish so make sure to get everything! Next, move to the floor. Once again, try to go with the grain.
When this is completed lightly dampened a rag with mineral spirits (paint thinner) and wipe the floor clean. This should pick up any tiny particles which would otherwise impede the integrity of the finish on your floor. During this step I recommend you shut all windows and either take your shoes off or wear protective shoe booties.
10.) Picking the Right Finish
There are three choices here for the first finishing step: a.) Stain, b.) Oil-based polyurethane or c.) Water-based polyurethane.
a.) Stain
This is used when you want to change the natural color of your floor. It can
Posted in Flooring Guides | Belt Sander, Carpet, Coats, floor, Floor Guide, Floor Sander, Guide, Hardwood Flooring, Hardwood's, Haven, Refinish, Sand, Sanding Belt, Sub Floor | Leave a comment